Insula
Image from published plateThe cap in the dexter corner is thus termed an Insula imbowed.
Jew's cap
Image from published plateThe cap in the sinister chief corner is called a Jew's cap ... See numb. 115
Cardinals hat
Image from published plateThat in the Base is another sort of Cardinals Hat, delineated so as the inner part of the Crown and under side of the Brim is seen contrary to that set forth in chap.1. numb.35. and 37. to which is added a Ducal Crown, with Strings and Tassels crossing each other.
Some term this a Cap hat, or a Faulconers Hat, or a Foresters Hat, having a round low Crown, and a narrow Brim: of these see more numb.128. and chap.1.numb.64.
Sleeve
CXXVI. This is a Maunch or Sleeve of the newest Fashion, being now in use by the great Gallants of
our times, even in the present year at the writing hereof
which is 1680. It consists of these several parts which
may fitly make it termed the Hounds Ear
Maunch.
The Sleeve and its Turn up.
The half Sleeve.
The Turn up which hangs like Ears.
The Linnen Sleeves.
The Tyes about the Wrists.
The Ruffles, or Falls.
Maunch
CXXVII. This is the Maunch that was in great use
about the Year 1548, and in those times it was only a
plain close Sleeve, made fit for the Arm, with a plain or
Laced Cuft close to the Wrist, the Shoulder
Wing being all the strangeness of its fashion, which was
a thick round quilted Roul, divided into lesser, as if it
were a Raife or Wreath work.
Maunch
CXXVIII. This Maunch or Sleeve, was in fashion
about the Year 1520, and is in a manner the same to the
foregoing: being a plain close and narrow Sleeve made
fit to the Arm, from the top to the Shoulder, it had a
kind of half or quarter Sleeve, or rather a kind of
round deep Shoulder Wing, which was wrought after the
manner of quilted work, some part rising, puffing, or
swelling out, and then again other places (yet in Decent
and Comely order) falling down, or inwards to the Sleeve.
Cap hat; Insula
Image from published plateIn the Chief of this quarter is a kind of Cap Hat, or Mild Cap, Turned up on the side ...
In the dexter base is an Insula crowned.
Maunch
CXXIX. This is another Maunch and of the same
make in the Sleeve, only it hath a side Wing, or Half
Sleeve at the Shoulder: which I have observed in old
Pictures which were in the Year 1432, and thereabouts:
Of two fashions they weared them, the one with whole
Cloth of a wide compass at the lower side or end of it,
and then gathered into Pleats or fouldings at the
Shoulder, where it was joyned to the other part of the
Garment. The other fashion was Cordi-rope like,
the same being cut through like so many little Skirts,
or Lapps of a Doublet.
Maunch
CXXX. This fashioned Maunch with a close Sleeve
and Cuft was worn in and about the Year 1412. It
was called the deep and Indented Winged Maunch;
as the Wings on the shoulders were not only broad
at the top of the Sleeve, but the Wing run deep down
the Back almost even to the Waste; and of these kind
of Wings some had them whole, making a division by
sowing between each indent; others had them cut into
so many pieces Cord-rope like.
Maunch
CXXXI. This was a great fashion for Noble Persons Maunches or Sleeves in the Reign of Queen
Elizabeth; most of her Pictures in her Elder days being
drawn in this Garbe, that is to say about 1580. They
were outwardly of the finest and purest white Laun or
Holland, having an inward Lining stuffed with Cotton
Bombaste, and then by the Art of the Semstress wrought
into round Puffs, which compassed the Arm, which
again were subdivided into other lesser Puffes, which
stood up in every round like so many rising, or Imbossed swelling Ovals. This may be termed the
Queens Maunch.
Maunch
CXXXII. This is the Viragos Maunch, I cannot
ascertain any time to the principal use of this Sleeve, because it is so often drawn in all fantastick pieces, and
Copper Cuts. It consists of a full thick swelling sleeve
tyed up in the middle below, or above the Elbow, thereby to make the other part to swell the more out. These
usually have ruffled or Ruff Cufts at the Hand Wrists,
and a long, small and narrow Wing at the shoulder.
There is also another sort of these Maunches, which I well remember was in use in King Charles the Firsts Reign, about the beginning thereof, which both Men and Women wore, and that was to have these said Sleeves all slashed, and cut long ways open, that either fine Holland shirts, or Silk or Satin, or that their rich Embrauthered under Wastcoats may be seen.
Maunch
CXXXIII. This Maunch answers the foregoing, only
differs in this, that the face of the Sleeve is open,
with one slit, being tyed in the middle as that before:
At this open was seen either fine Holland or Cambrick
inner Sleeves, or else Silk or Satin laid with Silver or Gold
Lace, or richly Imbrauthered. The Cuft belonging to
this fashion, was generally Ruffles, or falling Cufts.
Maunch
CXXXIV. This is a Maunch half Maunched,
being a close sleeve, with another open or wide sleeve
coming over it, even to the bending of the Elbow. This
was in fashion about the year 1620 and 1644. The
Wing of this Sleeve was but narrow, yet it was cut in
flaps or Cordi-ropes; the Cuft in use with it, was a
deep falling, or single Cuft gathered much in the Stock,
with a Ruff or Ruffle at the Wrist.
This half Sleeve was also much worne open from the
Wing to the Bent of the Arm, where the two corners
were usually tyed together with a Rubin.
Maunch
CXXXV. This is a Maunch or a Sleeve, with a
loose hanging sleeve on the Back of the Wing coming down to the Skirt of the Garment; it was much
in use of old and grave Matrons in the days of K. Charles
1633 as it is a wear amongst little Children with us to
this day; the Cuft was either a single Cuft fastned on
the Sleeve hand, or ruffe Cufts about the Arm
Wrist, and with the Rich and Nobler sort, both together as one Cuft.
Hands and arms embowed
Image from proof plateIn the dexter base of this quarter I have caused to be set two Hands and Arms embowed.
Men's sleeves
Thus much for Womens Sleeves, now an example or
two I shall give of the fashion of Mens Sleeves, especially those most remarkable.
CXXXVI. This is the fashion of a Mans Sleeve, as they were worne about the year 1640, the first part of it was either a Doublet or Wastecoat sleeve, made fit and close to the Arm, over which is cast another loose Coat, whose sleeves reach not much below, or about the bending of the Arm, where it is turned up and faced, and hangs down at the Elbow like a flap or Dogs Tongue. Now the Fashion and Mode of this said Turn-up is various, and that only as makes so may ridiculous and fantastic mouldings in Garments for sometimes the facing is direct round; others are slit open at the Elbow, and hang down like Dogs Ears; others have them open on the top of the Arm, with the Corners pricking up like Asses Ears. But for Women to wear their sleeves with such a large open is much more Ancient; for in Old Monuments, Paintings and Prints I have observed this used by them above 200 years since.
Men's sleeves
CXXXVII. This is another fashion of a Mans
Maunch, as it is now in fashion by the Gallants of
our Age, for this present year 1680, but how long it will
continue, the Taylor is the only knowing Man to judg of
it; for indeed we are all his Apes, delighting in that Dress
he puts us in, be it never so ridiculous, to put us out of
our comely shapes. This Maunch consists of a close
sleeve fitting the Arm, which is the Wastcoat, and
sometimes but a Counterfeit or Half sleeve, made of
some rich Stuff or Silk, being the same as the other
Turn-ups of the Sleeve are faced withal, over this sleeve
is drawn another not much wider than the Arm,
which hath with it a double Turn-up, which lyeth on
the middle of the Arm between the Wrist and Elbow,
and are open in the bottome. falling below the Arm, into the corners. The Cufts hereunto belonging are various
according to the fancies of men, some haveing small
edges of white about the wrist bands; other ruffe Cufts,
others Falls or long Cufts to hang over the Hands , &c.
and all these of several fashioned makings, which were
endless to describe.
Men's maunch
CXXXVIII. Is another kind of Mans Maunch,
being in all respects answerable to the foresaid, only the
outward sleeve of this is cut open, sometimes Buttoned down, that it may be
opened at pleasure; this is only to shew that such Gallants wear not Cheats or half
Sleeves, but that their Wastcoats are the same clear
throughout.
Sleeves
CXXXIX. He beareth two Sleeves.
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