Chapter 3, Item 34a
Saddler's terms
Terms used in the Sadlers Art.
A Tree, is the Wooden part of the Saddle, to which all the other things are fixed.
Narve, or Narfe, are Sinews pulled to Threads, or long slender pieces, and glewed on the Tree to hold the Tree from cracking or breaking. Gullet,
Gullet plate, is a crooked Iron plate nailed on the fore part of the Saddle Tree to strengthen it.
Hinder Plate, is a like thin plate of Iron nailed behind the Tree.
Barrs, the two sides of the Tree.
Civett, or Civetts, are square Buckles without Tongues, hung in Iron Plates or Chapes, and so nailed to the sides of the Tree, to hang the Straps and Stirrop Leathers at: Some call the Civett irons.
Girth Webb, or Webb, is that Stuff as the Girths are made of.
Straining the Webb, is nailing the Girth Webb over the hollow of the Saddle Tree, that the seat fall not between the two sides.
Setting the Seat.
Shaping the Skirts, is the drawing out the form and fashion that the Skirts are to be of; which are generally streight, and go from the Pomell to the Crupper, or else round skirts, which ly under a Mans Thigh, and no where behind.
Cutting the Seat.
Pomell, is the top of the fore part of the Saddle, and is usually in great and rich Saddles made of Brass or Iron silvered or gilt; it is round like the Pomell of a Sword.
Crupper Buckle, is large square Buckle fixed to the Saddle Tree behind, to fasten the Crupper to, each Buckle having a rouler or turn on it, to make the same draw easily.
Crupper, is a roul of Leather put under the Horse tail, and so drawn up by Leather thongs, or a Crupper Band, to the Buckle behind the Saddle, and keeps a Horse from casting the Saddle forward on his Neck.
Strapps, are Leathers fastned to the sides of the Tree, to draw the Girths streight under the Horse Belly.
Pannel, is the under part of the Saddle, it lyeth between the Horseback and the tree to keep his back from Gauling; being made of strong Linnen cloth welted about with Leather, and stuffed with soft beaten hair.
Stuff the Pannel, is to fill it with hair.
Tie the Pannel, is to make it fast with Leather ties or slices to the Saddle tree, both behind and before: some term this, Tie the points in.
Buckling the Girth, is to fasten Buckles at both ends.
Buckle, or Girth Buckle; is a four square hoop, with a tonge: which is made stiddy with its going through a hole of Leather & fastned with a narrow thong
Girth, is when it is Buckled, and compleat for use; else it is called no more then a Web, or Girth Web.
Sirsingle, or Sursingle; is a long peece of Web that will compass a Horse about his belly and back, having at one end a Buckle, and the other a long strap of Leather with holes punched in it, to buckle at what distance the Horse keeper pleaseth: by the help of this the Horse cloth is kept on, and the Horse is Wadded with straw.
Wounty, it is a peece of Leather of a yard and half or more, and four inches broad, having an Iron hook fastned to one end, and long robe at the other; with this they tie Panniers, Hampiers and great Packs on Horse back to keep them from falling off the Pack-Saddles.
Rowler, or Body Girth; this hath a kind of Pad called a Rowler, which slippeth too and again on the body Girth, or Sursingle, which is ever fixed upon the ridge of the Horse back, to keep the Girth from fretting of the hair, or hurting his ridge.
Stirrope, Irons to put ones Feet in.
Stirrope Leathers, and Buckles.
Breast-plate.
Trappings, those Leathers which hang on the Horse Buttock, which are generally set with white and yellow Stud-Nails.
A Pad, is a soft thing made like the seat of a Sadle and stuffed with Feathers, which is fixed on the Saddle seat, that old men which cannot sit hard may ride thereon.
Collars.
Male Pillen, is that which a Cloak-bag or Portmantu is fixed stiddy and sure on a Horse back part: to the Male belongs these things.
Male Stickes, the peeces of wood on the Male-pillen.
Male Strap, is to tie behind the Saddle to two Leather Loopes.
Portmantu, vulgarly Portmantle.
| Staples | } | |
| Chain | } | |
| Lock and Key | } all belonging to a Portmantu. | |
| Locking Flap | } | |
| The Great Flap | } |
Straps made fast to the great Flap.
Buckles, to keep down the great Flap by the straps.
Loopes, to put the ends of the straps through, to keep them from unbuckling.
Male Girths, are two long Leathers with a Buckle at one end, the other going through the Loopes on the Male sticks, and then through Iron Rings fixed behind the Saddle and so over the Portmantu all is buckled together.
End Straps for tying, or buckling the ends to the Belly Girths, that it lie not to one side more then another.
Bridle, it is so termed when it hath all its appurtenances fixed together, for the several parts of a Bridle: they are these. The Bit, or Snaffle; is the Iron work put into the Horse mouth of which there is several sorts as you may see chap.7. numb.44. 45.
Head stall, are the two short Leather that come from the top of the Head to the rings of the Bit. Fillet, is that as lieth over the Fore-head, and under the fore-top: if the Horse have trapping this is usually adorned with a Rose or such like of Leather set with studs.
Throat band, is that Leather as is buttoned (from the Head band) under the Throat.
Raines, is the long thong of Leather which comes from the rings of the Bit and being cast over the Horse head, the rider holds them in his hand by which he guides the Horse as he pleaseth.
Button and Loope at the end of the Rains by which it is fastned to the ring of the Bit: the other end of the rains having only a Button so large that it cannot go through the ring of the Bit on the other side, this is called a running Rains: by which a Horse is lead at a good distance, & hath liberty to leap a ditch or mount a hedge.
Nose band, a Leather that goeth over the middle of his Nose, and through Loopes at the back of the Head stall and so buckled under the Cheeks. This is usually adorned as the Fillet, if the Horse be trapped & studded.
Trench.
Cavezan, a false Rien to hold or lead a Horse by.
Martingal, a thong of Leather, the one end fastned under the Horse Cheeks, and the other to the Girth between his Legs, to make him Reign well, and not cast up his Head.
Chaff Halter.
Side Saddle, is a Saddle for a Woman herself to ride upon. It hath several things belonging to it, to make it compleat.
The Tree, in which is the seat that is round.
The Single Head, hath one bow in the middle of the forepart of the tree.
The Double Head side Saddle, is with two bows one long the other short.
The two Barrs that are the side Barrs, to which is joyned the fore part and the hinder part of the tree.
The Sivets, which are square rings in Plates, three on each side the tree to put the straps too.
The Straps, which are long Leathers for the Girths.
A Fore-Compass Plate, a Fore-Gullet Plate,
Plates to strengthen the tree.
A Crown, or little half round Plate; to secure the fore part of the tree.
Hind Gullet, or inside Plate; to strengthen the hinder part of the tree.
A Plate half round behind on the seat for the strengthning that part of the tree.
Two thin Plates on the fore part of the seat.
A Crupper Sivet, or Swivels; on the hinder part, to hold the Crupper.
Two Buckles on either side the fore part to hold the Breast-plate.
Narfing, are Beasts sinewes dried and beaten and Glewed on the tree for its strengthning.
Canvising the tree, also for its strengthning.
The Pannel, is Canvice stuffed with Wool to lie next the Horse.
The Skirts, the covers of the side of the tree, which are Fringed and wrought, and sometime plain.
The Out side, is the cover of the seat, which is Fringed around the Rimm.
The Seat, hath a Boss in the middle, and a Rim about it.
The Quilting of the fore parts of the skirts.
The Rim set together with a small seming Fringe.
The Saddle Head, set together with a small seming Fringe.
False, or loose Cover; a cover to keep the Saddle clean.
The Girths, which are three; Girth Web, with Buckles at each end.
The Crupper, that as lieth on the Horse buttock, with its garnishings, which are studded or tufted with Silk.
The Dock, that as goes under the Horse tail.
The Breast-Plate, for the stidfastness of the Saddle, the fore part and two straps.
The Footstoole, with a Sivet, which is hung to the right side of the Saddle by a Leather strap.
The Bridle as a Mans Bridle, only this of a Womans is double Rained: see the figure of the side Saddle, chap. 9. numb.168.
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Chapter 3, Item 35a
Tailor's terms: women
Terms used by Taylors.
In a Womans Gown there are these several parts, as
The Stayes, which is the body of the Gown before the Sleeves are put too, or covered with the outward stuff: which have these peeces in it, and terms used about it.
The fore Part, or fore Body: which is the Breast part, which hath two peeces in it; as,
The Right side of the Fore-body.
The Left side of the Fore-body.
The two side parts, which are peeces under both Arms on the sides.
The Back.
The Shoulder heads, or Shoulder straps; are two peeces that come over the Sholders and are fastned to the Forebody: through which the Arms are put.
Scoreing, or Strick lines on the Canvice to sow straight.
Stitching, is sowing all along the lines with close stitches to keep the Whale-bone each peece from other. ---- is the cleaving of the Whale-Bone to what substance or thickness the workman pleaseth.
Boning the Stays, is to put the slit Bone into every one of the places made for it between each stitched line which makes Stayes or Bodies stiff and strong.
Cordy Robe skirts to the Staies, are such Stayes as are cut into Labells at the bottom, like long slender skirts.
Lining the Bodies, or Stayes; is covering the inside of the Stayes with Fustian, Linnen, and such like.
Binding the Neck, is sowing Galloon, at the edge of the Neck.
Eylet holes, or Eiglet holes, little round holes whipt-stitched about, through which laces are drawn to hold one side close to the other.
The Waist, is the depth of the Stayes from the Shoulders to the setting on of the skirts: now it is distinguished by the Back Waist, and the fore-body Waist, which is each side the Stomacher.
Side Waisted, is long or deep in the Body.
Short Waisted, is short in the Body.
The Stomacher, is that peece as lieth under the lacing or binding on of the Body of the Gown, which said body is somtimes in fashion to be.
Open before, that is to be laced on the Breast.
Open behind, laced on the Back, which fashion hath always a Maid or Woman to dress the wearer.
The Peake, is the bottom or point of the Stomacher, whether before or behind.
A Busk, it is a strong peece of Wood, or Whalebone thrust down the middle of the Stomacher, to keep it streight and in compass, that the Breast nor Belly shall not swell too much out. These Buskes are usually made in length according to the necessity of the persons wearing it: if to keep in the fullness of the Breasts, then it extends to the Navel: if to keep the Belly down, then it reacheth to the Honor.
A Point.
Covering the Bodies or Stayes, is the laying the outside stuff upon it, which is sowed on the same after diverse fashions: as,
Smooth Covered.
Pleated or Wrinkled in the covering.
The Wings, are Welts or peeces set over the place on the top of the Shoulders, where the Body and Sleeves are set together: now Wings are of diverse fashions, some narrow, others broad; some cut in slits, cordy Robe like, others Scalloped.
The Sleeves, are those parts of the Gown, as covers the Arms: and in these there is as much variety of fashion, as days in the Year: I shall only give the terms of the most remarkable.
The close, or narrow Sleeve; which reacheth from the Shoulder to the Wrist of the Arm, and is not much wider then for the Arm: which were of old turned up at the Hand, and faced or lined with some other sort of stuff.
The Wide, or full Sleeve; is such as are full and long, and stand swelling out: such are tied about the Elbow close to the Arm with a Ribbon.
The open Sleeve, such are open the fore part of the Arm, that their bravery under may be seen whether it be a mock or cheat Waist-coat with Imbrauthery or the like; else their fine Linnens and Laces.
The Slasht Sleeve, is when the Sleeve from Shoulder the the Sleeve hands are cut in long slices, or fillets: and are tied together at the Elbow with Ribbons, or such like.
The Sleeve and half Sleeve.
The Sleeves with hanging Sleeves, is a full Sleeve in any of the fashions aforesaid, with a long hanging Sleeve of a good breadth hanging from under the back part of the Wing down behind, even to the ground; in the greater sorts of Gallants trailing a good length on the ground.
The half Sleeves with Hounds Ears, are such as extend to the Elbow and there turn up, and being slit or open hang at the Elbow like Dogs Ears.
The Rim of the Sleeve, is that part which is at the Sleeve hand either lined or Edged or Welted: but of these sorts of Sleeves see their figures and shapes, chap.5. numb.130. 131. &c.
The Faceing.
The Skirt, or Gown Skirt; is the lower part of the Gown, which extends from the body to the ground: these are made several fashions, as
Open Skirts, is open before, that thereby rich and costly Peti-coat may be fully see.
Turned up Skirts, are such as have a draught on the Ground a yard and more long; these in great Personages are called Trains, whose Honor it is to have them born up by Pages.
Bearers, Rowls, Fardingales; are things made purposely to put under the skirts of Gowns at their setting on at the Bodies; which raise up the skirt at that place to what breadth the wearer pleaseth, and as the fashion is.
Skirts about the Waist, are either whole in one entire peece with Goares, or else cut into little laps or cordy robe skirts: Gowns with these skirts are called Waistcoat Gowns.
Wastcoat, or Waistcoat; is the outside of a Gown without either stayes or bodies fastned to it; It is an Habit or Garment generally worn by the middle and lower sort of Women, having Goared skirts, and some wear the with Stomachers.
Goare, is a Cant or three cornered peece of cloath put into a skirt to make the bottom wider then the top: so are Goared Peti-coats.
Peti-coat, is the skirt of a Gown without its body; but that is generally termed a Peti-coat, which is worn either under a Gown, or without it: in which Garment there are
Peating, that is gathering the top part in into Pleats or folding to make it the same wideness as the Waist or middle of the wearer.
Laceing is setting a Lace of Silk, Silver or Gold about the bottom of it; which in a Peti-coat is called the Skirt.
Bodering, is the lineing of the Peti-coat skirt or bottom in the inner side.
Binding, is the sowing of some things (as Ribbon, Galloon or such like) on both sides the Edge of the skirt to keep it from ravelling; sometime it is done by a Hem: the top part of the Peti-coat hath its Binding also; that is, it hath either Incle, Filleting, or Galloon, sowed about the Edges of it, when pleate: which keeps the Pleats in their Pleats, the ends helping to make it fast about the wearers Waist.
Hem, is the turning of the Edge of the cloath in; two fould or more, then sowing it up, keeps it from ravelling.
Tucking, is to draw up the depth of a Peti-coat being too side or long, and that is by foulding a part over another.
Pocket, or Pocket holes; are litle Bags set on the inside, with a hole, or slit on the outside; by which any small thing may be carried about, or kept therein.
A Mantua, is a kind of loose Coat without any stayes in it, the Body part and Sleeves are of as many fashions as I have mentioned in the Gown Body; but the skirt is sometime no longer then the Knees, others have them down to the Heels. The short skirt is open before, and behind to the middle: this is called,
A Semmer, or Samare; have a lose body, and four side laps, or skirts; which extend to the knee, the sleeves short not to the Elbow turned up and faced.
The Riding Suite for Women.
The Hood.
The Cap.
The Mantle, is cut round, which is cast over the Shoulders to preserve from rain or cold. The Safegard, is put about the middle, and so doth secure the Feet from cold, and dirt.
The Riding Coat, it is a long Coat buttoned down before like a Mans Jaket, with Pocket holes; and the sleeves turned up and buttons.
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Chapter 3, Item 35b
Tailor's terms: men
In a Mans Suite of cloaths there are these several parts: as
The Doublet, it is the covering for the upper part of the Man: in which there is these peeces and terms.
The two Fore Bodies.
The two Back parts.
The Waist, is the length form the shoulder to the middle, now in a Doublet it may be the fashion to be
Short Waisted.
Side Waisted.
The Skirts or Laps, because one lieth a little over another they are distinguished by the fore skirts, side skirts and hinder skirts; sometimes the custom is to have them more or less, big and little: narrow or short, and large or deep.
The Collar, is that part as compasseth the Neck.
The Belly peeces, the inward stiffning of the Breast of the Doublet.
The Linning, is fine Flaxed or Linnen; called the out Lining.
The Inner Lining, is Canvice, Buckram, or such like, next to the cloth or stuff, between it and the foresaid Lining.
The Waist-band, is a ------ under the skirts to which the straps are fastned.
The Eyes, or Holders; are small Wiers made round through which the Breeches hooks are put, to keep them from falling.
Straps, are peeces of Leather fastned to the Waistband instead of Eyes, or holders.
Waistcoat, is a close Garment worn under a Doublet, and within the Waist-band of the Breeches.
A Pacadile, a thing put about a Man or Womans Neck to support and bear up the Band, or Gorget.
The Sleeves, are the covers of the Arms and are of diverse fashions, as I have set down in Womens sleeves.
Sleeve Hands, the lowest part of the sleeve next the Wrist.
Turn ups, or Cufts; are the turning up of the end of the Doublet next the hand.
A Slasht Doublet, is when both sleeves, and back, and fore-body, are cut unto long slices, or fillets.
Button Holes, are such long slitt holes whipped about with a Loop at each end, as are in the left part of the Fore-body, and at the sleeve hands, to receive the Buttons on the right side, and to keep it close together.
The Facing, is to Face the sleeve hands, is to adorn the turn up, with some other sort of Stuff or Silk, then the suit of Cloaths is made off.
The Breeches, is that part of cloathing which covers a Man from his Waist to his Knees; of the fashion of them there is many extent, I shall tell of some few.
The Spanish Breeches, are those that are stret and close to the Thigh, and are buttoned up the sides from the Knee with about ten or twelve buttons: anciently called Trowses.
The Sailers Breeches, are full and gathered both in the Waist and at the Knees, standing full out.
The Open Breeches, are such as are full and wide and not gathered at the Knees, but hang loose and open.
The Pantaloon Breeches.
The Trunk Breeches.
The Petticoat Breeches, are short and wide Coats with Waist bands, having no petition, or sowing up between the Legs; but all open like a short Peticoat, from whence they are named.
Triming, is any thing put on, or about the Doublet, or Breeches: whereby they are adorned and made more Gent, whether it be by Ruffles, Laces, Ribbons, Buttons, Loopes, Scalloping, &c.
In the Breeches, there are these several parts.
The Waistband.
The Hookes.
The Cottonings, is that with which the cloth or outward stuff of the Breeches are Lined.
The Drawers, are Linnen Breeches worn under the Breeches which are tied about the Waist and either above or under the Knees.
The Pockets, are little bags set in the sides of the Breeches to put or carry any small thing in.
The Seat, the hinder part on which we sit; also the inner part which is at the Breech.
The Out side of the Breeches.
The Cod-peece, or open of the Breeches before.
The Knees.
Loose Garments usually worn over the Doublet and Breeches are such as these following.
A Stret bodied Coat, this is close to the Body and Arms, and is usually worn without a Doublet, having under it a Waistcote, with side or deep skirts, almost to the Knees. These kind of Waistcoats are called Chates; because they are to be seen rich and gaudy before, when all the back part is no such thing.
A Vest, is a kind of wide Garment reaching to the Knees open before and turned up with a Faceing or lineing, the sleeves wrought to the Elbow and there were turned up with a round faceing; under it was worn another side skirted Coat made fit to the Body after the manner of a Doublet, which was called a Tunick: the sleeves of it were narrow, and rought below the Elbow to the middle of the Arm, where it was all beset with knots of Ribbons: about the middle was worn a Silken Girdle, which was called a Zoan , or Sash: chap.3. numb.23.
A Jacket, or Jumpe, or loose Coat: It extendeth to the Thighs is open or buttoned down before, open or slit up behind half way: the Sleeves reach to the Wrist having the turn-up sometime round, then with Hounds Ears, and another time square.
A Mandilion, or Madilion, or of old a Mantevil: It is a lose Coat without Sleeves it reacheth in the skirt to the seat of the Breeches, and is open before, it hath hanging Sleeves which hang down backwards, almost as side as the skirt: chap.3. numb.24. A Coat, or Riding Coat; is a full Coat both wide and side with long and wide Sleeves to be drawn over other kinds of Garments.
A Coat with a round Cape, is the same as afore having a Cape added to the neck part of it.
A Mantle, is a round thing made of any stuff, having a round hole in the middle, and so is cut through to the hole, which being put about the neck hangs round about the wearer: which according to the fashion, is large or little, faced or laced &c. chap.3. numb.32.
A Rocket, is a Cloak without a Cape.
A Cloak, is a peece of Cloth or Stuff cut round with a hole in the Center of it as the Mantle, on the back of it, is a Cape placed; some are deepe Capes, some narrow, others loose from the Cloak part at Cape ends: chap.3. numb.34.35.
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Chapter 3, Item 35c
Sewing terms
Several Terms used in Sowing of Cloath.
Basting, is a slight running of the Needle and thrid through two peeces of cloth to keep them together while they are sowed with some of these following stitches.
Back-stitch.
Fore-stitch.
Whip-stitch.
Privy-stitch.
Fine Drawing, is sowing two peeces of Cloth together so curiously, that it shall not be seen where the sowing is.
Ravelling, is roveing or the loosing out of thrids or Silk-thrids from the peece of Cloth or Silk.
Stuff, is the general term given to that, of which any Garment is made, whether of Hare Wool, or Silk.
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Chapter 3, Item 35d
Upholsterer
An Upholsterer. He beareth an Upholdsterer covering of Stool, or else making up of a Stool. This may be termed an Upholdsterer in his Shirt, his Breeches Tenne, stuffing of a Stool, the Cover and Frame.
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Chapter 3, Item 35e
Upholsterer's terms
Terms used about their Work in a Stool or Chair, Cushion or Bed, and Hanging of a Room.
Stool Terms.
Girth it, is to bottom it with Girth Webb stret drawn and crossed.
Canvice it, is to nail the Canvice on the top of the Stool or Chair Frame, over the Girth Webb.
Rowle it, is to put Rowls on the top edges.
Quilt it,
Stuffing, is to stuff it with Hay, Wool, Flocks or Feathers.
Fringing, is to Nail the Fringe about the Stool seat at the sides.
The Seat, is that place sitten upon.
Backing is to Nail the Back on the Chair suitable to the Seat.
Garnishing, is the finishing it with Brass Nails.
Cushion and Bed Terms.
Bottom the Cushion, is to sow the lower part and top together.
Tuffs or Tuftings, are the Tassels at the corners of the Cushion. Bed-Tick, to hold the Feathers.
Gumming, or Waxing, or Sizing, is to rub the in-side of the Bed-Tick, with either Gum, Wax, or Size, to keep Feathers from coming through it.
Feathers, is the filling of the Bed-Tick, which are cleansed from Dirt and Foulness, these ways.
Dressing, making all clean from Quills.
Fanning or Driving, taking the Down away.
Stripping the Feathers from the Quills. Clipping, is the cutting of the Feather part from the Quill with Scissars.
Down, is the Dant, or pure soft airy Feathers which have no Quills.
Quilting, is to put Cotton Wool of an equal thickness between two Silks, or a Callicoe or other Cloth undermost, and a Silk above, which is wrought in scrolls, flowers, &c. to keep the Cotton from shifting its place.
A Mat of Straw woven or platted together, to ly on the Bed Cords under a Feather Bed to preserve it from Fretting.
A Matrice, is a Quilted Straw or Flock Bed.
A Flock Bed, is Sack Cloth filled with Wool or Flocks, which is a course Wool.
A Chaff Bed, is filled with Oat or Wheat shoues.
Terms about Hanging of Rooms.
Hanging a Room, is to fix about it, either Cloth, Silk, Damask, gilt Leather, Arras, or Tapestry, or any other thing that will cover or hide bare Walls.
Hangings, or Rich Hangings, are generally taken to be Silk, Arras, or Tapestry.
Plain Hangings, are such as have nothing on them of shape, but only plain Stuff or Cloth.
Plain Hangings, that are plain Cloth or the like, yet have gilt Ropes or Staves, set down the hanging at a certain distance one from another.
Mixed Hangings, that is, when a Paine or Pillar of Gilt Leather, or painted Fruitages or Flowerages, are fixed between each breadth, either of cloth or stuffe.
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Chapter 3, Item 35f
Seamster
A Seamster. The Seamster or Seamstry work follows next in order to that of a Taylor; this being work to adorn the Head and Hands and Feet, as the other is for the covering of the Body; nay, very often, the Seamster occupieth the room and place of a Taylor in furnishing the Nobility and Gentry with such conveniences as serve the whole body, especially in the Summer season. I shall therefore give you the Terms used about their Imploy, and then the names of such pieces of work both in the whole, and in the parts, as is usually done by them.
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Chapter 3, Item 35g
Seamster's terms
Terms used by a Seamster.
Patterns, Paper cut in fashions according as the Work is to be made.
Cutting,
Shaping, the ordering the Cloth to be cut.
Laying down, is the edges of the cut Cloth laid down to be hemmed.
Hemming, is sowing up the edges of Linnen, to keep it from ravelling.
Selvage, the out-side of the Cloth.
Seaming, is sowing two selvages together, which is called a Seam or two Hems together; or a Hem and a lay down.
Ravell, or Rovell, vulgarly Rove, when threads come out of the edges of the cloth.
Ining, or sowing down the Seam.
Sowing, Stitching.
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Chapter 3, Item 35h
Seamster's ware
Naming of things made by Seamsters.
Shirt, or Shift for a Man.
Smock or Womans shift.
Fenting, binding at the sleeve hands.
Sleeve hands.
Sleeves and Gussets at the Arm-holes.
Neck, the gathering.
Open of the Breast. Back. Skirts.
Goar, or Gussett, the side pieces in a Smock.
Band, as Collared Band, Neck Band, Shoulder Band.
Hollowing, the rounding of it for the Neck. Clocks of the Band.
Stock, or Neck piece.
Hinder part of the Band.
Fore part of the Band.
Ruffs, pleated Bands of two or three heights.
Round Robins, narrow Ruffs only about the Doublet Collar.
Foulds. Sets. Ruffles.
Cravatts. Half-shirts.
Cuffs, or sleeve cufts.
Ruffles for the hands, both Plain and Laced.
Sleeves. Bibbs. Biggins.
Handkerchiefs for Womens Necks, both round and square.
Whisks, to be worn with a Gown.
Shapes for Mantua's.
Tuckers, or Dresses.
Gorgetts, round Dresses plaited to be deep about Womens Necks.
A Band for a Morning Gown.
A Roman Dress, the Mantua cut square behind and round before.
Night-Rails, or Cover-sluts.
Womens Head Dresses.
Quoifs, Chin-Cloth. Caul. Chapparoon.
Croslett, or Crosscloth.
A Pinner is with long flaps hanging down the side of the Cheeks.
Towers, curled hair on the forehead.
Ear Knots, Forehead Knots, Head Knots, and Crown Knots falling backwards.
A Ruffled Quoif, also with a Knot of Rubin in every fould.
Fillet and Snood.
An undress.
A Cornett, or Coif with long Ears, tyed under the Chin, and hanging down deep to the top of the Breast, made of Birds Eye or Gaues.
An Head Roll. Hoods made of either Gaues, Alamode, Lutestring, Sarsenet, Ducape, Vinian Sarsnet, Persia, Lindia Silk, or Gaues and Birds Eye flowered.
Women Sleeves.
Half Sleeves with Hounds Ears, or Boat sleeves; these are made of Silk and Satin Imbrauthered, some with Puffs, or ruffles in the turn-up, or Fringed.
----- Holland Sleeves with ruffle Cuffs tied about with Rubins.
House Cloths, or Linnen, as Sheets, Towells, Napkins, Table cloths, Cupboard cloths, Pillow bears.
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Chapter 3, Item 35i
Lace
Bone-Lace and Parchment-Lace Makers.
Laces, or Bone-Lace wrought with Pegs. Scallops.
Golberteene, or Colbertain, a kind of open Lace with a square grounding.
Point, a kind of Lace worked with a Needle.
Point of Venice, with raisings.
Point of Lorrain without raisings.
Purle Lace. Flanders Lace.
Lay it, is to stitch the seaming on the Parchment according to the Work drawn on it.
Overcast the laying.
Fill the Branches and Leaves with Diamond work overcast.
Loop-work. Purles. Raise-work.
Buttons. Ilet holes.
Edged on the side with Cocks Comb.
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Chapter 3, Item 35j
Laundresses
Laundresses Terms of Art.
Sorting. Soaping. Soap Sudds.
Scalding. Washing.
Wrenching, or Blorning.
Booking or Bouking.
Batting, or beating the Cloths to get the Bucking Stuff out.
Starching. Wringing the Cloaths, to force the Water out.
Drying. Smoothing or Ironing.
Hanging up, to Air and Dry throughly.
To Ladder, is beating the Soap and Water together, to make it rise to a Froth, which the call Suds.
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Chapter 3, Item 35k
School mistress's work
The School Mistris Terms, and things to work with.
Needles, of several sizes.
Cruel of all colours.
Silk for sowing of all colours.
A Tent.
A Samcloth, a cloth to sow on, a Canvice cloth.
Slave Silk. Naples Silk.
Fine white Alcomy Wyre.
Ising Glass. Gum Arabick. Gum Dragon.
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Chapter 3, Item 35l
School mistress's terms
The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her ways of Sowing.
A Samcloth, vulgarly a Sampler.
Plat-Stitch, or single Plat Stitch, which is good on one side.
Plat-Stitch of double Plat-Stitch, which is alike on both sides.
Spanish stitch, true on both sides.
Tent-stitch on the Finger.
Tent-stitch in the Tent.
| Irish stitch. | Back-stitch. |
| Fore-stitch. | Queens-stitch. |
| Gold-stitch. | Satin-stitch. |
| Tent-stitch upon Satin. | |
| Fern-stitch. | Finny-stitch. |
| New-stitch. | Chain-stitch. |
| Bread-stitch. | Fither-stitch. |
| Rosemary-stitch. | Mow-stitch. |
| Whip-stitch. | Cross-stitch. |
| Raised Work. | Needle work Pearl. |
| Geneva Work. | Virgins Device. |
| Cut Work. | Open Cut Work. |
| Laid Work. | Stitch-work, & Through stitch. |
| Lap Work. | Rock Work. |
| Frost Work. | Nett work. |
| Purle Work | Tent Work. |
Finger Work, all which are several sorts and manner of Works wrought by the Needle with Silk of all Natures, Purles, Wyres &c. which cannot be described.
Wast, or Finger Bread, are kind of Purse-strings woven on the Finger either round or broad, one side of one colour, the other of another; or wrought in Letters, Flowers, Chequy or Losenge ways.
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Chapter 3, Item 35m
Other school mistress's work
Other Works performed by School Mistresses and their Scholars.
Gum Work, is by Gumming of several colours of sleeven Silk together, which being dry they cut into shapes of Leaves and Flowers, and so tie them up upon Wyers.
Frost Work.
Transparant Work. Wax Work.
Pull Work.
Quill Work.
Paper Work, all which are the making of Leaves and Flowers of all the foresaid things, and binding them up in Branches or Poesies.
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Chapter 3, Item 36a
Shoemaker's terms
Terms used in the Gentle Craft.
Cutting out,
Closing the Heel Quarters and Vamp.
Rounding the Sole.
Setting the Sole on the Last.
Sowing on the Sole.
Breasing? down the Rann.
Stitching the Sole to the Rann.
Rounding the Soles on.
Channelling the Sole, is making a riggett in the outer sole for the Wax thread to ly in.
Sowing or stitching the sole round.
Rubbing it with a rubbing Stone.
Laying or beating too the stitch.
Sowing the Heel.
Pegging on the Heel pieces.
Slickening it off, polishing the upper Leather.
Pinking the over Leather, cutting the grain of the Leather into Roses, Knots, and orderly devices.
Colouring the soles, painting the edges with India red.
Burnishing the soles, setting a shining polish on the red.
Painting the stitches, laying the stitches which lie upon the Rann of the shooe with white.
Closing the Thread, that as soweth the heel pieces and over leather.
Stitching the Thread, is that a soweth the Soles to the Rann.
Leather or Heel thread, is that as sowes the heel to the shooe.
The Size of a shooe is the measure of its length, which is in Children divided into 13 parts; and in Men and Women into 15 parts; the first of them being five Inches long before it be taken for a size, what the shooe exceeds that length, every fourth part of an Inch is taken for the size 1, 2, 3. and so forwards to 13 which is called the Boys or Girls thirteens, or the short thirteens, and contains in length 8 inches and a quarter, from which measure of 8 inches and a quarter, the Size of Men and Women, called the long size, or Mans Size, begins at 1, 2, 3, &c. to the number 15, each size being about the fourth part of an Inch as aforesaid; so that a Shooe of the long fifteens is in length 12 inches just. Some term it a Gage or Shooe Measure.
Grain of the Leather, the hairy side. Flesh side of the Leather.
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