CHAP. III.
From the several sorts of Habits (as they are born in their diversity of parts, we shall now proceed to shew you how they are born in whole, both as they pertain to Regallity, Nobility, Gentry, Husbandry, and Artificery; together with the fashions of People both in Court, City and Countrey: We shall begin with the first in Nobility, which is the Emperour.
Estates of Man Book III, Chapter 3, Section 1
King
Untranscribed item(s) Emperor
King enthroned
Untranscribed item(s) Kings robes (The Robes and Ensigns of Kings); English coronation ceremonies (Coronation Ceremonies used at the Crowning of the Kings of England); Kings household (Officers and Servants in the Kings Majesties Houshold with their Fees); Kings officers (A List of the Kings Officers in Ordinary that Attend His Person above Stairs. ); Kings household (Other Officers of Court which Pertain to the Kings Houshold with their Fees); Officers of state (Officers of Estate and the Kings Houshold with their Allowances)
Prince in his parliament robes
Untranscribed item(s) Prince creation (The Creation of a Prince); Prince of Wales revenue (The Revenues of the Prince of Wales); Prince of Wales officers (The Officers about the Person of the Prince of Wales); Prince of Wales officers (The Ancient Officers of State and other Places of Judicature of the Princes polity of Wales; with their Fees Per Annum); Arch Duke; Duke; Duke creation (The Creation of a Duke. ); Marquis; Marquis creation (The Creation of a Marquis. )
Earl in his parliament robes
Untranscribed item(s) Earl creation (The Creation of an Earl); Earl of Chester officers (Offices of State and Domestical belonging to the Earl of Chester with their Fees); Earl of Chester revenues (Ancient and Modern Revenues of the Earldom of Chester); Viscount
Baron in his parliament robes
Untranscribed item(s) Baron creation (Creation of a Baron. )
Knight of the Garter
Untranscribed item(s) Knight of the Garter creation (Creation of a Knight of the Garter. [Cites] Cambden's Britannia.; Segars Honor Military and Civil, fol.65.; Seldens Titles of Honour, Part 2. fol.792.; Institutions, Laws and Ceremonies of the most Noble Order of the Garter; set forth by Elias Ashmole, Esq; Printed at London 1672. )
Knight of the Bath
Untranscribed item(s) Knight of the Bath creation (Creation of a Knight of the Bath. [Cites] History of Warwickshire, fol.532, &c.; Honours Military and Civil, fol. 69-70.; Bish, his Notes upon Upton. Fees at a Knight of the Baths Creation. ); Knight banneret; Knight baronet; Bachelor of the spur; Knight of the Green Cloth; Knight; Knight degrading (Degrading of a Knight); Knights secular (List or Catalogue of the several Orders of Knights Seculars. [Cites] William Malmesbury de gestis Regnum.; Ingulphus Histor.; Segars Honour Military and Civil.; Dugdales Warwickshire, fol.531.; Selden's Titles of Honour.; Matthew of Westminster, in Anno 1306.; Glover Somerset de Nobilitate Civile Anno 1414.; Carters Analysis of Honour.; Fernes Glory of Generosity.; Stows Annals, pag.693. 694.; Mills Nobility.; Camdens Britannica, pag)
Herald
Untranscribed item(s) King of Arms creation (The Creation of the Kings of Arms); Herald creation (The Creation of the Heralds and Pursevants. )
Mayor of a city in his formalities
Alderman
The image is labelled but is not included on the plate.
Related text(s) Mayoral office Corporation officers
Chief justice
Judge
The image is labelled but is not included on the plate.
Doctor of civil law
Livery man
XIII. He beareth a Livery Man of the City of London in his Guarded Gown, Furred down before with his Hood hanging behind his left Shoulder.
As soon as the Apprentice hath by his servitude satisfied his master, and that his freedom is now at hand; he is then brought by his
Master to the Chamberlain of London his office, where he is first made Free of the City, and enrolled to be so, that thereby he may
enjoy a right and Priviledge to the Franchizes of the City, and to follow that (or any other )Trade he was bound Apprentice unto.
That finished he is brought to the Hall - more, the Place or Hall for the Assembling of every Guild or Fraternity for regulating of what doth belong to each company or Trade in particular; where the new Freeman of the City is admitted a Brother of the said Hall.
Related text(s) City Companies
Bedes man
XIII. He beareth a Beads-Man, or an
old Man in and Hospital (or Poor Mans) Gown,
with a Bonnet or Cap on his Head;
with a Palmers Staff in his right
hand. It hath ever been the minde and care of
Pious People to be charitable to the Poor, and therefore
for that end have either built Hospitals or Alms-Houses
for the dwellings of poor old and indegent People, endueing them with Lands and Revenues for their livelyhood and maintenance
when past their Labours: or else
to bring up poor Fatherless and Motherless Children that
cannot help themselves, till such times as they are able
to do Service, and become Apprentices; of which kind
of Hospitals this Kingdom through the bounty of Benefactors is well Stored.
Related text(s) Hospitals
Esquire
XIV. He beareth an Esquire in his Ruffe, or
apparelled according to his Degree,
but if we must
go to the particulars of his Habit then take it thus, an
Esquire in his bravery standing in full View, having a
Beaver with a Feather of three falls on his Head,
a Satin Pinked Doublet, Breeches and Cloak
cast over his left Arm: Imbrauthered with Gold,
with Silk Stockings, Garters and Roses at his Shooes:
a Belt over his shoulder with a Sword Pendant
thereat: having a Staff in his right hand.
This was the habit of either a Knight or Esquire, or Ancient Gentleman of a considerable Revenue, in King Charles the first his Reign: being then (as it is now in our Days) no distinction at all by their Garbs, every one going as it seemed best in his own Eyes: for now the Knight is not known from an esquire, or an Esquire from a Gentleman by their Habits: nay it is a hard thing to distinguish a Master from his Man, but only that he goes after, and stands with his Head uncovered before him.
Now though fashion in apparel both in Men and Women do very much vary: yet as to the Principals of the Garments, they constantly stick to them; as Doublet, Breeches, Hat, Hose and Shoos; and for their covering, it is a Cloak, or Coat with Sleeves.
Related text(s) Esquire degrees
Gentleman
He beareth a Gentleman in a Hunting or Walking posture, with his long Staff in his right Hand. This is termed either a Hunting or Walking
posture, because in those time[s] they cast off all outward Garments, as Cloak or Coat, that they may either go, or run with the more ease
and dexterity.
Among the lower rank of Nobility are accounted the Gentry, which have no other Title, but Gentleman or Master, which are such as are descended of ancient Families, that have always born a Coat of Arms... .
And in all Latin Writs, pleading, and the like; the word Gentleman was generally used, till King Henry the Eights time, since which they have used the word Generosus, for a Gentleman; of what sort soever, as Mr. Selden testifieth fol.858.
Gentleman
He beareth a Gentleman with his Cloak on the left Shoulder and cast about his middle, with his right Hand on his side, Hat, Boots and Spurs
with his sword by his side.
Demy Man
Image from published plateIn the sinister base of this quarter, is a Demy Man sans Arms, with a sharp pointed Beard, cloaths open at the neck.
Related text(s) Gentry degrees Gentry honours and exemptions Gentry virtues Gentry vices
Yeoman
XVII. He beareth a Yeoman, or Countryman, or a Freeholder of the Country with a Staff in
his right hand.
This habit (as to their inner Garments) Yeoman usually did wear in King James his time, viz. narrow brimed Hats with Flat Crowns, Daublets with large Wings, and short Skirts and Girdles about their Wasts, Trunk Breeches, with Hosen drawn up to the Thighs, and Gartered under the Knees.
Related text(s) Yeomen and other commonalty
Untranscribed item(s) Commons liberties (The Liberties and Priviledges of the Commons )
Page of Lord Mayor of London
He beareth the Lord Mayor of London, his --- or Boy in his Pride; the Lord Mayors Page some term him; his Habit is constant, viz. Doublet and
Breeches, Hose and Shooes, all of a colour; with a Loose Coat, or jacket of Scarlet, reaching to the middle of his Thighs, without
Sleeves, but such as hang upon his back, being of the same length of his Coat; having a Gold Chain about his Neck, a Velvet
Bonnet on his head, with a Feather therein; in his left hand he carrieth a White Staff, with an Handkerchief Laced, tied on the
top of it with a Poesie of Flowers. In this habit doth a young Boy about 10 or 12 Years of Age, walk before the Lord Mayor every Easter,
etc. when the Aldermen and Sherrifs in their Pomp, wait upon him to the Spittle.
Demy man
Image from published plateOn the division score between these numbers 17 and 18, is fixed the figure of a demy Man to the sinister, sans Arms, bare headed, with a sharp pointed Beard, and two Elephants teeth out of his mouth, a Ruffe about his Neck.
Related text(s) Page Footman Querrie Lacky
Lovers
XIX. He beareth two Lovers (or a Man
and Woman walking together Arm in Arm:
But if you will go to a farther description of them , then say thus, a Man and Woman walking, their Arms Imbracing, [he with] his Hat, Doublet with Broad Wings, and little Skirts, and Trunk Breeches, and Hose; [her with] her Hood and Gown, Gorget or Whisk and Apron; see numb.51.
Serving man
XX. He beareth a Serving Man, or a Gentlemans Servant standing (with full Body or) in
full Aspect, with his two Hands on his sides, his
Head uncovered, cloathed with Breeches, Doublet,
Hose, Shooes, overcast with a hanging
or loose Coat, with the Sleeves hanging backwards.
This kind of loose Coat with hanging sleeves cast over a Doublet or under Coat, was in the Reign of Q. Elizabeth termed a Mandilion, which is a loose Cassock, such as her Soldiers used to wear.
Apprentice (?)
Unlabelled image not included on the plate.
Related text(s) Waiting man Gentleman usher Servant Apprentice Slave
Next section
