Hat
LXV. He beareth an Hat; band
turning up; decked with a Plum of feathers. It was a great fashion in King Charles the first time, to have the under side
on the brim to be lined with Taffity of variable colours.
Hat
LXVI. He beareth a Womans Hat banded.
This is called a Womans Hat, because generally they wear their Hats higher in the Crown (Sugar Loafe like) and broader in the brims, then Men do. This is generally the Feltmakers Sign.
Indian hat
LXVII. He beareth an Indian Hat, (or a
China Hat, and String pendant, Button
and Tassell.
Turk's caps
Image from published plateIn the Chief of this square, is placed the fashion of two sorts of Caps, which I find used, and born in Coat Armour. The first is a kind of Turks Turbot, and the other a Wreathed Cap, or a Cap with a Wreathed turn up, being another sort of Turks Caps.
Dutch hat
LXVIII. He beareth a Dutch Hat;
Band, String, Crossed, and Tassells. They
use (as I suppose) these strings to tie their Hats to their
Heads.
Dutch hat
LXIX. This is another manner of way, which the
Dutch use in drawing their Hats.
There is another sort of Dutch Cap, as chap.5 numb. 38. which is termed a Dutch Cap, turned up, the Tassells and Strings crossed.
Turban
LXX. He beareth a Turbot (or a Turks
Cap): having a Sprig feather set in the side of it.
These may be termed Turks Imperial Turbots: being such as the Emperial Sultan himself doth wear, and none else but himself: all others wearing such as I have set down in the chief of numb.67.
Russia cap
[Russia cap with a feather stuck in it.
Not on plate]
Mercury's cap
LXXI. He beareth Mercury's Cap, or
Hat: Winged.
Hood
LXXII. He beareth an Insula
fretted; the turning up, opened before (or
on the side) and reverted, or turned down again below
the Neck and Sides of the Face. This may be
termed and old Mans hood which covers him all about
the Neck and Face to preserve him from cold.
Insula
Image from proof plateLXXIII. He beareth two Insula's, fretted: [with] Buttons and Tassells.
Poland cap
Image from proof plateLXXIV. He beareth a flat Crowned Cap, Wreathed.
Such a Cap with a turn-up, and open on the sides is a Poland Cap.
Dominican monk's hood
LXXV. He beareth a Monks-hood
or a Monks Caule, or else the hood of a Dominican
frier. This is also the form of the Cauls, or
hoods, belonging to the Cluniacens friers but of a
different colour.
Carthusian monk's hood
LXXVI. He beareth a Monks-hood, or
Caule of the Carthusian Order.
Benedictine monk's hood
LXXVII. He beareth the Hood, or Caule
of a Benedictan Monk, or frier. This is
contrary to the other Hoods, having a loose and hollow
peece of cloth hanging backward, as it were a long bag.
Also tied under the Chin, hanging loose down before.
Cluniac monk's hood
[Not on plate]
French hood
LXXVIII. He beareth a French Hood
This sort of Hood was much in request about 1568. and because it came first out of France to us, it was called a French Hood; it hung down with a long broad flap the end thereof being turned up to the top of the Head (for so it was usually worn) and there made fast, it did not exceed the shoulders in depth. This having the flap or Tippet hanging down the wearers Back, may be termed a Mourning-hood, or a close Mourning hood; for such great persons usually wear over their Heads and Shoulders in Funeral Obsequies and Solemnities.
Mourning hood
LXXIX. He beareth a Dutch-hood
This may also be termed a Mourning Hood, being such as they of inferior rank wear at the Solemnity of great Funerals; which are called close Mourners, and have only their Tippets extending from the Crown of the Head to the middle of the Back.
Mourning hood
LXXX. He beareth a close Mourning hood for a Person of Honor, having the Tippet
reflected, and laid under the Cloake or Shoulder part of
the Hood.
There is in these kind of Hoods three parts; the first is the Hood which covers the head all about the Face; the second is the Cloake part, which covers the Neck and Shoulders: the third is the Tippet, which hangs from the hinder part of the Crown, and reacheth backwards to the ground, and in some a yard on the ground, according to the quality and greatness of the Person wich weareth it.
Lady's veil
LXXXI. He beareth a Covered Hood, or a
Ladies Vail. Being only Silk Imbrauthered according to the Persons quality, and edged with Gold and
Silver, and so cast over the head, it was a rich kind of
Attire for the head in former days, see lib.2.chap.17. numb.32.
Coif with boongrace
LXXXII. He beareth a Quoif with a Boongrace. Some call it an Head Attire, or
Frontlet.
Woman's hood
Image from proof plateLXXXIII. He beareth a Womans Hood having the tyes or flaps tyed, and ends flotant or pendant.
Nun's veil
LXXXIV. He beareth a Nuns Vaile or
Nuns Hood. It is so termed, because their
Hoods are all so deep, that the compass all about the
Shoulders.
Set hood and night rail
LXXXV. He beareth a Set-hood, laced,
conjoyned to a Night-raile. This is a kind
of dress which Women in Child-bed usually wear,
when they are for Christnings, and up-sittings. Some
term this a Hooded Night-raile.
Coif
LXXXVI. He beareth a Veiled Quoif,
or a Quoif with a Veil, or loose Scarfs hanging
each side of it, imbrauthered in the frontlet.
This was a great fashion for Head Attires in
the elder times, see numb.87.
Cap with beads
Image from published plateIn the chief of this square, is the form of a Quoif, or rather a Cap, compassed about the bottom with a String of Pearls or Beads, the end extended; as you may see chap.5. numb.142 c after the same manner a String of Beads are often made to proceed from Crowns either extendant or pendant] and also from head Tires.
Head tire
LXXXVII. He beareth a Womans Circle
or Head Tire, fretted, with a
Towel or Scarf cast over the back part of it, and
pendant: Of the adorning of the head with circles of Gold, and Imbrauthered work after this manner
about E.I time, by Men and Women of high account,
is manifest by many Pictures and Monuments of those
times. See Mr Dugdale on Warwickshire, fol.121.
[Renumbered as part of square 86]
Old man's cap
Image from proof platea. He beareth an Old Mans Cap turned up, having covers for the Ears and Neck of the second. It may be termed also a Jews head cover.
[Renumbered as part of square 86]
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