Shoomakers Tools, or St Hugh's Bones.
6. Let not any of my Fellows or Masters of the Gentle-Craft, take it in ill part, that all their Tools were not set together, seeing St Hughs Bones ought not to be separated: for I do declare, it was not mine, but the Informers Fault, that gave to me so mincingly, as if he had been afraid I should have robbed him of his Art; in which I did rest satisfied, till a more Ingenious person informed me of the whole, which take as follows.
Shoemaker's seat
CXII. In this quarter is the Shoomakers seat.
On this seat upon the
right hand of the Work man, is made several Divisions, whereof one is for his Wax and Thread, another
for his Awls, and another for the rest of his Tools, so
that what he wants he can easily put his hand to without
confusion or tumbling of the rest.
Shoemaker's measure
In the chief is the Shoomakers Measure, by which
he taketh the length or size of all feet, whether Children, Men or Women: As for the terms of each
length, I have spoken of them elsewhere, chap.3 numb.
36. to which place I refer you, only here shewing you
the said Measure, which is so made that it runs one
piece into another, that the Feet at each end coming together, makes one perfect Shooe.
Shoemaker's punch
In the Sinister Base is a Punch, which is only to
make holes in the upper Leather for Shooties or Buckles,
to make the Shooes fast on the feet: There is two sorts
of them, the common, of which this is the figure, and
the more gent and neat Punch, of which you have the
shape of one, numb. 114.
Hollin sticks
CXIII. In this quarter are three sorts of Hollin
Sticks, used by Cordwainers; not that they are
made of Hollin Wood, but a peculiar name so given
them, with them they burnish and polish the upper Leather, and sides of the Sole Leather; also by the sharp
ends they run Riggers, and score the Leather with what
Devises they please.
Shoemaker's wax
In the Sinister chief is a Ball of Shoomakers
Wax, to Wax their Thread, which they call stitching Thread, and Stitching or Tatching ends;
without which they cannot work, or set a Stitch in a
Shooe; only this perplexity it hath with it, in the Winter it is so hard that it works none but before a Fire, and
in the Summer it is so soft, that it must constantly be
kept in Water.
Pincers or nippers
CXIV. He beareth a pair of Pincers, or
rather Nippers, and a Punch. These are
to be termed Shoomakers Nippers, being contrary
in the Shanks to common Pincers, as having a sharp
point in the end of one; and a slit in the other, to
strain up a Tack or Nail. There are two sorts of them,
as in the next, numb. 115.
Punch
In this square is the Figure of the genteel Punch, of
whom I spoke before numb. 112.
by the help thereof both Sandals and Shooes
are made secure on the Feet, by which means we may
Go, run, or Leap, without Jeopardy.
Pincers
CXV. He beareth a pair of Pincers, or
Hammer Pincers extended or laid open.
This kind of Instrument (as the Nippers abovesaid) doth perform the office of an Hammer, both to drive a Nail with the
flat place at the pinching part, and also to pull out a
Nail or Tack by the bottom nicked part; so also it
can with its point either Bore a hole, or prize up a
Nail sunk too deep into the Sole or Last, besides the
pinching part which is Toothed for diverse uses, as to
draw out the Leather, force out a Tack.
Wedges
In the Sinister chief is a pair of Wedges, these are
to raise up a Shooe in the In-step, when it is too streight
for the top of the foot: Shoomakers love to put Ladies in their Stocks; but these Wedges like Merciful
Justices, upon Complaint soon do ease and deliver them.
Lead or cistern
In the Sinister Base, is placed the Lead or Cistern,
that being filled with Water, and set in a cool place,
keeps their Balls of Wax from running about, and
makes them so indifferent hard that they may be
wrought with.
Shoemaker's stitching stick
CXVI. He beareth three Wooden
Tools of the Shoomakers viz the stitching
Stick, the fore-part Stick, and the long Stick;
all three useful for them, but seeing I can find none such
in Arms, I pass them over.
Shoemaker's forepart stick
Shoemaker's long stick
High heel shoe
Image from proof plateCXVII. He beareth an High Heel shooe Pinked Soled. This is a Shooe of the Gentest fashion, which I have set amongst the Tools, because my Engraver did not do his part, in making those Shooes in chap.1 numb.96.
Shoemaker's trees
Image from proof plateIn the Base of this quarter, is placed the Shoo makers Trees, they are for the stretching out of the Leg of a Boot that pincheth, or is too straight for the Leg and Calf; it goes with a Running Wedge in a Rigget, between two other peeces of Wood cut in the shape of a Leg.
Related text(s) Pinking a shoe
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