CHAP. II. Having in the former Chapter treated of things for the Head and Feet, both as they are used in places of Honor and Majesty, and also for Domestick use and service; so in this I shall set down what Garment or other things are used for the Body and Hands, both for them of the higher powers in the Court, to the Peasant in the Fields.
Bands and gloves Book III, Chapter 2, Section 1a
Plain band
I. He beareth a plaine Band. with Bandstrings pendant.
This is an Ornament for the neck which is of the finest white Linnen cloth [as Flaxen] Holland [Lawn] &c: & is made by the art of the Seamster [and Washed and Starched] Slickened and Smoothed by the care of the Laundress. In the begining of the raigne of King Charles the first [Yellow Bands were much used] which were Dyed with Saffron [and Supported round the neck by a Picadill] of which see more numb.7.
Laced Band
II. He beareth a Band Laced, (or a Lace
Band) the Band strings Pendant. Seamsters in a Band makeing, have severall termes.
Related text(s) Band parts
Spanish ruff
III. He beareth a Spanish Ruffe.
Falling ruff
IV. He beareth a falling Ruffe, with Strings
pendant.
Round ruff
V. He beareth a round Ruff, with Strings
pendant.
Ruffs are generally Cloth folded by Art into sets, or turning, for two or three heights or doublings of Cloth.
A Cravatt is another kind of adornment for the Neck, being nothing else but a long Towel put about the Collar, and so tyed before with a Bow Knott; this is the Original of all such Wearings; but now by the Art and Inventions of the Seamsters, there is so many new ways of making them, that it would be a Task to name them, much more to describe them; see in the Bases of numb.6, 10, 55.
Whisk
VI. He beareth a Womans Neck Whisk,
This is used both Plain and Laced, and is called
of most a Gorgett or a falling Whisk, because it
falleth about the Shoulders.
Cravat
Image from published plateIn this square in the Base, is the shape of a Cravatt tyed up in a Bow Knott, of which I have spoken before in numb.5.
Related text(s) Night rail Pinner
Neck whisk
VII. He beareth a Neck Whisk rounded
and laced; or a Neck Whisk, which standeth
round the Neck touching no part of the shoulders, but
is supported by a Pickadil, which was a stiff Collar
made in fashion of a Band; which kind of wear was
much in use and fashion in the last Age of our English
Gallants both Men and Women, as Monuments of
that time doth further manifest; for it is credibly reported that that famous place near St James called the
Pickadilly, took denomination from this, that one Higgins,
a Taylor, who built it, got most of his Estate by Picadilles.
Maunch
VIII. He beareth a Dexter Arm Habited
with a Maunch.
Doublet sleeve
IX. He beareth a Dexter Arm out of an
Old fashion Wing of a Doublet, Ruff
ousted, or turned up in form of a Ruffle.
Maunch
X. He beareth a Maunch.
This was the fashion of a Womans Sleeve in the time of King Edward the First and Second, or thereabouts; and is the Maunch now in use by our modern Heraulds, though in the days of our fore-Fathers, it was made according to the examples following, 11, 12, 13. Some draw the Elbow of this kind of Maunch, with a kind of flap hanging down, as is at the elbow of the Maunch, numb.8. and the like to the bottom of the Bag, at the fore part of the Sleeve, but it is much more done without them.
Cravat
Image from published plateIn the base of this square is the form of another Cravatt, worn by Men about their Neck, of which see more in numb.5.
Maunchmale
XI. XII. XIII. Maunches were anciently made after these three fashions; they were then called by the
name of Maunchmale, a Manchmale-tale, and a
Monchee.
Maunchmale tale
Monchee
Maunch
XIV. He beareth a Maunch fixed to the sinister side.
Sleeve
XV. He beareth a Dutch Maunch, (others
call it a French Sleeve). Thus the French
and Dutch do draw ther Maunch or Sleeve, which
name I take to proceed from Manica the Latin word for
the Sleeve of a Garment.
Arm embowed
Image from published plateIn the Base of this Quarter is an Arm Imbowed.
Sleeve
XVI. He beareth a French, or Dutch
Sleeve, turned up. This is another kind
of their drawing sleeves with a long Flap, and sharp
pointed at the Wrists of the Arm.
Sleeve
Image from published plateIn the Base of this Quarter is an Arm extended, and couped; the Sleeves Buttoned the whole length.
Glove
XVII. He beareth a Glove pendant,
Imbrauthered, and fringed at the top.
Related text(s) Glove parts
Mitten
XIX. He beareth a Mitten. This is of
some termed an Hedged Mitten, or Glove to hedg
with: a Tethering Glove.
[The text for illustration 18 is labelled 19.]
Glove
XIX. He beareth a Hand in fesse couped,
griping of a Glove: Imbrauthered and Fringed.
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